Breaking My 찜질방 Duck.

A unique concept of the Korean lifestyle is the Jimjilbang (찜질방). Google will tell you all you need to know about these places but I’ll do my best with what I've learnt from my time in Korea and my recent visit to one.

The common sleeping area inc snack bar. 

A Jimjilbang is a bathhouse or spa where Koreans go to relax and unwind. It’s a place where you can have a sauna, a body scrub and bathe in the hot pools for health benefits. This is not unique to most countries I know, but what is different here in Korea is that once you've finished with the sauna etc. Then you can head to another area and sleep for the night or until you feel like heading home.  Think of it as a one stop shop for relaxation at a fraction of what you’d expect to pay.

This weekend just gone I finally plucked up the courage and decided it was time I visited one of these places. Many foreigners in Korea use them as a cheaper alternative to hotels when traveling up and down the country. I've been putting it off for two reasons. One, my Korean speaking ability is little better than zero and two, I was a little apprehensive on how a big naked westerner with multiple tattoos would go down in the men’s spa area. I'd done a little basic web research and decided that Haeundae Spa Center in Busan was the place to break my duck. So there I was in Busan and although wasn't exactly going in blind, it was still with some trepidation that I took the lift (elevator) up to the fourth floor of the building in Haeundae. 

 I arrived and after saying hello to the receptionist I explained that I wanted the spa facilities and I’d like to stay the night too. The cost for this was 9 thousand Won which is about £5 or so. This is ridiculously cheap considering the facilities on offer inside.After paying my money I was given a receipt, I then went up a floor to the men’s spa (women have a separate bathing area but the common sleeping area is mixed). I arrived at a shoe taking off place as is the norm in Korea. As I was taking off my shoes I glanced through an open door to see naked men walking around! . I knew it was coming but in my own British mind-set I expected it to be less subtle and not the first thing I see.  Believe me I've served in the Royal Navy and have seen more naked men than I’ll ever dare to admit but I still had ‘what the hell am I doing here’ thoughts as I crossed the threshold.

On handing my receipt to another receptionist I was given a lovely set of light blue pyjamas which I would have to wear in the common area later. I was told to take any locker and then I headed off to a quiet spot to strip off and bare it all in public.  The place was really busy as it turned out, it was 6pm on a Saturday so I guess many Koreans incorporate a nice spa session as part of their weekend routine.After getting naked I headed towards a steamed up glass double door to where I supposed all the action was. 

If I was being stared at by all in sundry then I really didn't notice at this point as I went to a shower and cleaned myself off with soap before plunging into a hot pool.  Did I get any funny looks? Yes, one or two but mainly because of my tattoos and not because I’m a westerner. Tattoos in Korea are quite rare except on foreigners, so to see a guy with a few would be noticeable.  In terms of my nakedness, nobody batted an eyelid and I just blended in with the clientele and had a very relaxing couple of hours indeed. I had a sauna, a shave, a Jacuzzi and a wonderful soak in the hot pools.

 I felt like a new man when I decided I’d had enough and wanted to head to the common area.  I could have got a body scrub or a massage at an extra cost but due to my lack of Korean I failed to understand what the masseuse told me, so I left it at that. After drying and moisturising my aged skin I donned my blue PJs and went up the six floor. This is where you can relax, sleep on the floor, watch TV, surf the internet or have dinner. It was a huge open space with everything you could want. 

There were separate rooms that were heated to a set temperature and some massage chairs too.  I lounged around for a few hours and read my kindle before about 10pm when the attendant started putting the blankets and headrests out for sleeping. You can sleep anywhere and most people sleep on the floor although there are some wooden benches that soon filled up. 

The place got really busy and quite noisy as time went on. I was really tired but I couldn't  sleep till after 1am when they dimmed the lights and turned off the multiple TVs dotted around.  Korean families tend to have a weekend stay at a Jimjilbang so you do get quite a lot of children there and as you’d expect they are noisy.

The floor was quite hard too but eventually I slept and as it turned out I had about six hours sleep which isn't bad at all. I’m a light sleeper and I have trouble sleeping away from my own bed, but other people really did go into a deep sleep if the snoring was anything to go by.In the morning I woke, went downstairs had a shower and got dressed before heading out for breakfast at a beach-side café.

What I will say about Jimjilbangs is that they’re not hotels so don’t expect great sleeping comfort. It is something to consider if you’re on a tight budget and the spa session alone is well worth the money.  Will I go to one again? Yes, I probably will and I’ll sleep better in future knowing that it’s quite safe and very laid back.